I notice that when the waves are small and glassy (and not crowded too) me and Walden always have a great time! When I got to SO it was breaking quite good on the sets. I think it was surging on the high tide. Bonga was trying to beat Aunty's WPM (waves per minute) but I think Aunty won... I made a goofy and may be boring vid but at least you can see some of the waves we had ... still uploading to Utube.
Sorry forgot the camera! Was packing the Rawson SUP.
Eastside
Started off down at Kualoa... was EPIC... too bad no waves. Winds were offshore, tide was high, was barely breaking.
Went down to Rainbows, morning sickness, was breaking but mushy and the tide was too high was backing off.
Went down to Crouching Lions, occassional but mostly flat, breaking very small over ther reef. Checked down Kahana, was breaking way far out on the outside but over rocks.
Went back to Rainbows, got nicer butt a whole lot smaller.
Used the bathroom at Kualoa, and it was even more gorgeous but no waves.
Decided to Furlough and rest today because my back was sore last night, too much lie down surfing, decided to waste gas and go home the long way through the North Shore.
North Shore
It was odd, I was driving north and it kept getting flatter and flatter. Punaluu side wasn't breaking. Pulled in at Malaekahana it was flat, little bit at Goat Island over the rocks. Kahuku was flat... so I started driving faster thinking I could pull a fast one down at Piddles.
Right when Vland was in sight... whoa?! like 10 ft Hawaiian and sideways? Hit Sunset where the contest was on and it was packed breaking way in the middle and not the right side as it usually does.... weird angle. Pipeline was breaking all funny too but clean, brown and empty.
Sharks Cove was glassy and nice and flat? Rubber Duckies was ramrodding the rocks. Waimea was barely breaking when I drove by, the shorebreak was about 3ft on the right hand side of the bay, on the left it was about 4ft.
Hit Piddlies, it looked doable, about 4-6 feet but strong current. Chun's wasn't breaking it was just one long left from Jocko's down until Piddles. Laniakea was maybe about 8ft and breaking all over the place. Yellow caution tape lined the beaches from Laniakea down to Piddlies.
Puena
Pulled in a Puena because I had to use the bathroom... coffee... only had 4 out. Inside had 2 beginner SUP's and breaking waist to chest high and mushy. Inside Outside was about shoulder to head high with the other 2 out and shoulder to head high and jacking, a lot of east side chop. Outside nobody. So being the good State worker I am I worked on my furlough day. Headed to the outside where the waves were about 1-3ft over head,. I was joining mine to the inside.
It was really fun until 8 haole guys paddled out and got in the way. Kept trying to share waves? I pulled my ab a good one when one of them got in a section I had just cleared. I was setting up for another bottom turn to make the next section and he came zooming out of the whitewater right below me, I pushed hard on the paddle to immediately change course back up the wave, and pop my ab went, luckily I held on and took the board over his head flattened and ate it. Had to go in. Cut through 15 more haole people who paddled out and were trying to learn in the inside soup and getting tumbled.
From Puena I saw Haleiwa which was breaking around 6 feet, I saw an 8 footer creep in. Avalanche was mackin' and the Haole guys were all saying how they wish they were towing in over there right now! Ack!!!
Anyways
I'll probably be in town tom'w lickng my wounds and looking for that west wrap on my shortboard. Westies are usually ugly in town... Maybe Old Man's on a SUP?
she can surf!
It happened again, blogging away with great idea (for me that is) and this time I walk away from the computer and someone shuts down the computer $%^&!
Crowded
Pulled in a little after 6am and parked 3rd row?!
Doesn't everyone know it's December? What are they doing here. Waves were lining up better but down from yesterday. I snuck out at the Point this morning because it was less crowded than SO and BETTER. Tide was kind of high, winds were light, northerly and cold in the morning, to easterly later on, to ESE even later on.
Tom'w we're going back to the east side, west winds? I'm going to try and stay out of trouble this time around... hehehe. Kado said I could borrow his Bang Bang, but I decided to not go packing.
Queen's BBQ
It's called QUEEN STREET CAFE ...I haven't taken pictures of the food there yet so I took the camera in today. Located on Queen Street about 2 buildings down from Tropical Blends, next door to a Mattress place. BBQing right along the roadside.
This is the mini furikake chicken and mac salad plate for $4!!! Add a drink for $.50. Da chicken is topped with the Wasabi Aioli they make in house. On the mac I got the classic pepper and homemade chili pepper water. ONO!!!
Other $4 mini's include BBQ Chicken and Steak. They also have daily specials. Regular size plate is $6 has 2 scoops rice and more meat. Choices of Mac, Pasta, and Green Salad, and then Brown/White rice.
CHEEP EATS!!!
Re-Post
Reposting da slideshow for Lisa so she can find it. Lot's of comments on the song, it's from Jonny's favorite show Glee on Wednesday nights at 8pm. Next Wednesday is the season finale. I downloaded it off of Itunes but also available from Amazon.
Got down early cuz CT showed me pics of the epic conditions and waves yesterday.... What is that saying? "you should have been here yesterday." I went out in the dark with Bonga and face planted my first wave and an hour later I caught my second wave to go in. Now something is very wrong with that. In between 1 and 2 I check out Rens then Point in hopes of the right hand breaks would catch better but still lumpy, however the Point was the best with thick doubling gnarly peak but too crowded and didn't catch shit.
Report
Was junk... check out da slide show!
Really in the early part it was breaking all of the place, slowly got better, cleaned up, and then after Bobby guys went in came inconsistent and the inside came really mushy and not jacking like earlier. On shores picked up around 9:15.
JUNK... check out da slide show!!!
I told Jonny I've been on the Blogs ripping photo's for a slideshow. Started the last week in November, figured I should finish it up because good photo's keep getting posted. I had to sift through close to 300 photo's.
It's amazing how Jonny's and Kumu's photo talents have grown up through now.
MLGF and Deano you're in this one too.
Jonny you like da music???
Crouching Lion Hidden Dragon
As advertised went tripping out Northeast today.
Left hand side is Kualoa after the morning sickness, the right is Rainbows that never did get over the morning sickness... must be pregnant. Sorry using small kine pictures today cuz there's a lot.
If you heard on the radio debris was washing up on the road in Kaaawa
First picture get sand, 2nd - hint it didn't rain out there and the road is wet? 3rd is at Kualoa when I was refilling water in my jug, shot my load at Crouching Lions.
I ended up by Crouching Lions. Right across the street from:
Never went out there, everyone always tells me it's ALWAYS bigger than it looks. So here's da game... Keep in mind the news was calling it 3-5 foot faces and I packed my 11OH.
Size Matters
How Big?
This is Razors... to bad the guy kicked out could've gave it away.
This is just outside Razor's
This is breaking outside the Channel and where I was. Take into consideration my truck was the size of my pinky fingernail where I was. The Channel was that weird texture due to the breakwater from the breaks both sides meeting up in a much deeper part.
This is a picture of waves stacking out near the mouth of Kahana Bay (the inside wasn't breaking, I looked). I hate to know how big this really was. Picture taken from the same place I took the others.
Here's a side view of what it looked like from Swanzies.
So how big which is most of the story.
Picture 1 is about 4 feet Hawaiian, it was overhead +2ft and very steep... couldn't tell.
Picture 2 is about where I started off surfing and was in the 5-6ft range, about double overhead, face slightly smaller than the length of my board.
Picture 3 - Where I spent most of my time was about 8ft+! The face was 1.5 x the length of my board... 11ft (well the ones I took there were bigger ones. And yes the peak backs were taller than me!
So I didn't take any at 1st picture because was too steep. 2nd picture I took 2 waves but saw da beeg ones and was a little nervous about getting smashed so paddled out. Picture 3 I took 4 waves from.
1st to see if I could do it, made it.
2nd because I made the first, made it.
3rd I ate it and got caught and drilled a few times, was practicing the Kama Sutra with my paddle so it wouldn't crack da ribbies. Put it this way when I knew I was going to eat it, I jumped and had time to press the shaft of my paddle into my chest and fat of my cheek, wrap my leg around and press my foot against the blade, straighten the other leg and other arm and land into the water at angle shaper than 45 degrees breaking the surface of the water to go deep. Held down for one wave came up and got hit by two more, held my paddle because if I lost that I wouldn't be able to get in, no way in hell could I paddle in
4th I was scared shetliss because the waves were getting bigger. But I sucked it up paddled to the other side and took a right which was holding up more and slopy and nailed it! It was less intimidating because I couldn't see it was my back side.
Bonus - Resession?
Got a call from a friend while I was debating Kualoa. He works at The Oceanic Institute, right across from Bebe's and next door to Sea Life Park. He calls if it's good. Only thing is the winds were picking up?
It was breaking in the middle and you could go left meet up and then take the right all the way in. Too bad though the wind did pick up and strong... can't tell by the pics. But I was standing on one of the concrete pillars taking pictures and was blown off by a strong gust of wind. I stood against my truck after that debating because it looked so nice but my truck was shaking so I decided to go home.
Not sure why, but my camera was acting up, kept taking pictures of the sky today... I took around 60 pictures, a good 10 were of the sky and 20 were blurry.
Easy tiger, I didn't say Jail bait... I was gonna tie this guy to Lele's board and tell him to paddle down to Waiks again.
I don't know if the tide got super high or if there was a freak set I missed this morning...
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